Silence is Golden.

I've just returned from 10 days in silence in a Buddhist monastery in the south of Thailand. Why? Good question!

I blame my friend Katriina. We used to work together in London and had previously discussed going on some sort of yoga retreat somewhere in the Med, but somehow never got round to it. Katriina has been in China teaching for the past year and now its the summer holidays, her husband was off on a lads holiday in New Zealand, so she asked me if I fancied meeting her in Thailand at a retreat she was interested in. I always felt like I had unfinished business with Thailand after spending some time backpacking there a few years ago, so I was in! So, she he sent me the link, and it was definitely not the luxury yoga / spa scenario I had in mind!

The Inter­national Dharma Hermitage of Wat Suan Mokkh is a specially built centre opposite the main monastery in Surat Thani, South East Thailand. They run a 10 day programme every month teaching Anapanasati - or mindfulness with breathing. There are pretty strict rules and not a huge amount of information on the website, but I was intrigued and up for the challenge! I was also keen to catch up with Katriina, plus a trip to Thailand, so we made arrangements and started researching!

We met in Bangkok on Thursday afternoon, and after a night in a hotel, catch ups and dinner, we flew to Surat Thani early on Friday morning (day zero!). The monastery is about 20 minutes from the airport, and the Dhamma Centre is a long hot walk down a sandy track - this was in July, in the hot, humid rainy season, carrying heavy backpacks!

We reached the centre and were met in the Dining Hall (the halls are all large open buildings), where we were given a copy of the conditions of the retreat to read before registering. These included -

  1. Intend not to take away any breath (abstain from killing).

  2. Intend not to take away what is not given (abstain from steal­ing).

  3. Intend to keep one's mind and one's body free from any sexual activity.

  4. Intend not to harm others by speech.

  5. Intend not to harm one's con­scious­ness with sub­stances that in­toxi­cate and lead to care­less­ness (no alcohol, no drugs, no smoking etc).

  6. Intend not to eat between after noon and before dawn.

  7. Intend not to dance, sing, play or listen to music, watch shows, wear garlands, orna­ments and beautify oneself with perfumes and cosmetics.

  8. Intend not to sleep or sit on luxurious beds and seats.

We'd read all of this on the website, so we signed up and paid our 2000BHT - about £50. We were given a key to our rooms, which were sparsely decorated with a concrete bed and a wooden pillow, mosquito net and lantern, unpacked, and then decided to check out the natural hot springs. There are two on the grounds, one f